{"id":34572,"date":"2022-11-11T10:57:56","date_gmt":"2022-11-11T03:57:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.vnras.com\/drug\/?p=34572"},"modified":"2022-11-11T11:02:17","modified_gmt":"2022-11-11T04:02:17","slug":"danh-gia-duoc-my-pham","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vnras.com\/drug\/danh-gia-duoc-my-pham\/","title":{"rendered":"\u0110\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m – B\u00e1c s\u0129 Tr\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u1ea5n Minh V\u0169"},"content":{"rendered":"

T\u00f3m t\u1eaft<\/h2>\n
D\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m<\/strong> ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 d\u1ef1a tr\u00ean nhi\u1ec1u ti\u00eau ch\u00ed. \u0110\u1ea7u ti\u00ean, \u0111i\u1ec1u quan tr\u1ecdng l\u00e0 xem x\u00e9t v\u1ecb tr\u00ed s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m. V\u00ed d\u1ee5, c\u1ea7n d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m nhi\u1ec1u \u1edf v\u00f9ng quanh m\u1eaft h\u01a1n l\u00e0 v\u00f9ng quanh m\u0169i. Th\u1ee9 hai, c\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111i\u1ec1u ch\u1ec9nh \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00ednh \u0111\u1ebfn s\u1ef1 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t b\u00e3 nh\u1eddn kh\u00e1c nhau tr\u00ean khu\u00f4n m\u1eb7t. Th\u1ee9 ba, gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb c\u1ee7a c\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 th\u00f4ng qua c\u00e1c \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 kh\u00f4ng x\u00e2m l\u1ea5n, nh\u01b0 \u0111o l\u1edbp s\u1eebng v\u00e0 m\u1ea5t n\u01b0\u1edbc qua bi\u1ec3u b\u00ec. Ch\u1ee5p \u1ea3nh c\u0169ng c\u00f3 gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb trong vi\u1ec7c \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 nh\u1eefng thay \u0111\u1ed5i v\u1ec1 bi\u1ec3u hi\u1ec7n c\u1ee7a khu\u00f4n m\u1eb7t sau khi d\u00f9ng s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m t\u00edch l\u0169y theo th\u1eddi gian.<\/p>\n
Vi\u1ec7c \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 th\u00edch h\u1ee3p c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m l\u00e0 r\u1ea5t quan tr\u1ecdng \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ea3m b\u1ea3o hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 t\u1ed1i \u01b0u. \u0110\u00f4i khi r\u1ea5t kh\u00f3 \u0111\u1ec3 x\u00e1c \u0111\u1ecbnh hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3, v\u00ec d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m v\u1ec1 c\u01a1 b\u1ea3n l\u00e0 m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m, theo \u0111\u1ecbnh ngh\u0129a l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ec3 trang \u0111i\u1ec3m, t\u1ea1o m\u00f9i h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u00e0 t\u1ea1o m\u00e0u cho da. V\u00ec hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 \u0111i\u1ec1u tr\u1ecb kh\u00f4ng bao gi\u1edd l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n trong vai tr\u00f2 c\u1ee7a m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m trong vi\u1ec7c ch\u0103m s\u00f3c da, n\u00ean kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 h\u01b0\u1edbng d\u1eabn n\u00e0o hi\u1ec7n c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m. C\u00e1c h\u01b0\u1edbng d\u1eabn x\u00e1c \u0111\u1ecbnh c\u1ee7a FDA \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u01b0a ra \u0111\u1ec3 ph\u00ea duy\u1ec7t thu\u1ed1c m\u1edbi, nh\u01b0ng FDA hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 th\u1ea9m quy\u1ec1n \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m, kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 quy \u0111\u1ecbnh. \u0110\u00e3 c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 trao \u0111\u1ed5i t\u1ea1i FDA v\u1ec1 quy \u0111\u1ecbnh c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m m\u1edbi s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng c\u00e1ch ti\u1ebfp c\u1eadn t\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1ef1 c\u00e1ch hi\u1ec7n \u0111ang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u00e1p d\u1ee5ng cho c\u00e1c \u1ee9ng d\u1ee5ng thu\u1ed1c m\u1edbi \u0111ang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ki\u1ec3m tra.<\/p>\n
Ch\u01b0\u01a1ng n\u00e0y s\u1ebd t\u1eadp trung v\u00e0o vi\u1ec7c \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m; tuy nhi\u00ean, c\u00e1c \u00fd ki\u1ebfn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c n\u00eau l\u00e0 c\u1ee7a t\u00e1c gi\u1ea3. D\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m v\u1ec1 c\u01a1 b\u1ea3n l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i kem d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m b\u1ed5 sung th\u00eam th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n \u201chero\u201d \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u1ec3 ph\u00e2n bi\u1ec7t v\u1edbi c\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c kem d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng, nh\u01b0ng thi\u1ebfu hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 l\u00e2m s\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ebfn m\u1ee9c \u0111\u1ec3 s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m kh\u00f4ng b\u1ecb c\u00e1c c\u01a1 quan qu\u1ea3n l\u00fd coi l\u00e0 thu\u1ed1c. H\u1ea7u h\u1ebft c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thoa l\u00ean m\u1eb7t, \u0111\u00e2y l\u00e0 ph\u1ea7n c\u1ee7a c\u01a1 th\u1ec3 b\u1ecb l\u00e3o ho\u00e1 do \u00e1nh s\u00e1ng \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean. Do \u0111\u00f3, ch\u01b0\u01a1ng n\u00e0y s\u1ebd t\u1eadp trung v\u00e0o \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 nhu c\u1ea7u d\u00f9ng d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m tr\u00ean da m\u1eb7t, c\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m, th\u1eed nghi\u1ec7m kh\u00f4ng x\u00e2m l\u1ea5n v\u00e0 \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 l\u00e2m s\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ec3 thi\u1ebft l\u1eadp hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3.<\/p>\n
Nhu c\u1ea7u d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m cho m\u1eb7t<\/h2>\n
D\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u00e1p \u1ee9ng gi\u1ea3i ph\u1eabu v\u00e0 sinh l\u00fd h\u1ecdc \u0111\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e1o c\u1ee7a khu\u00f4n m\u1eb7t. Khu\u00f4n m\u1eb7t b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u \u1edf \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ch\u00e2n t\u00f3c tr\u01b0\u1edbc, d\u1eebng l\u1ea1i \u1edf tai, v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gi\u1edbi h\u1ea1n b\u1edfi \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng vi\u1ec1n h\u00e0m b\u00ean v\u00e0 c\u1eb1m. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 khu v\u1ef1c ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p v\u00e0 th\u00e1ch th\u1ee9c nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a c\u01a1 th\u1ec3 cho ng\u01b0\u1eddi t\u1ea1o ra s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m, n\u01a1i ch\u1ee9a t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 c\u00e1c c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac tuy\u1ebfn c\u1ee7a c\u01a1 th\u1ec3, bao g\u1ed3m c\u1ea3 l\u00f4ng, \u0111\u1eb7c tr\u01b0ng b\u1edfi v\u00f9ng da kh\u00f4 chuy\u1ec3n ti\u1ebfp \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ea5y \u1edf quanh m\u1eaft, m\u0169i v\u00e0 mi\u1ec7ng. Da m\u1eb7t l\u00e0 v\u00f9ng da m\u1ecfng nh\u1ea5t tr\u00ean c\u01a1 th\u1ec3, tr\u1eeb v\u00f9ng da quanh m\u00ed m\u1eaft, n\u00ean d\u1ec5 b\u1ecb k\u00edch \u1ee9ng v\u00e0 d\u1ecb \u1ee9ng nh\u1ea5t, l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u00e1ch th\u1ee9c \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m. Khu\u00f4n m\u1eb7t c\u0169ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1eb7c tr\u01b0ng b\u1edfi nhi\u1ec1u c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac nang l\u00f4ng \u1edf d\u1ea1ng l\u00f4ng \u0111en tr\u01b0\u1edfng th\u00e0nh nh\u01b0 l\u00f4ng m\u00e0y, l\u00f4ng mi v\u00e0 r\u00e2u c\u1ee7a nam gi\u1edbi k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi l\u00f4ng t\u01a1 m\u1ecbn m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng \u1edf ph\u1ea7n c\u00f2n l\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a khu\u00f4n m\u1eb7t. C\u00e1c c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac nang l\u00f4ng n\u00e0y l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 chuy\u1ec3n ti\u1ebfp gi\u1eefa da tr\u00ean b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t v\u00e0 v\u00f9ng l\u1ed7 nang l\u00f4ng, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean \u0111\u1ecba h\u00ecnh khu\u00f4n m\u1eb7t g\u1ed3m c\u00e1c \u201cd\u00e3y n\u00fai\u201d xung quanh m\u1ed7i c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac nang v\u1edbi c\u00e1c \u201cthung l\u0169ng\u201d xen k\u1ebd t\u1ea1o n\u00ean c\u00e1c h\u00ecnh th\u00e1i da m\u1eb7t.<\/p>\n
L\u1edbp da l\u00f3t c\u1ee7a l\u1ed7 ch\u00e2n l\u00f4ng k\u1ebft n\u1ed1i b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t da t\u1edbi \u0111i\u1ec3m s\u00e2u c\u1ee7a nang l\u00f4ng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t khu v\u1ef1c chuy\u1ec3n ti\u1ebfp quan tr\u1ecdng. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 v\u1ecb tr\u00ed b\u1ecb k\u00edch \u1ee9ng d\u1eabn \u0111\u1ebfn vi\u00eam nang l\u00f4ng ti\u1ebfp x\u00fac k\u00edch \u1ee9ng g\u00e2y ra “m\u1ee5n” li\u00ean quan \u0111\u1ebfn m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m. Vi\u1ec7c lo\u1ea1i b\u1ecf t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 c\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t g\u00e2y k\u00edch \u1ee9ng kh\u1ecfi c\u00e1c c\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m l\u00e0 r\u1ea5t quan tr\u1ecdng \u0111\u1ec3 ng\u0103n ng\u1eeba s\u1ef1 b\u00f9ng ph\u00e1t d\u1ea1ng m\u1ee5n tr\u1ee9ng c\u00e1. V\u1ec1 l\u00e2u d\u00e0i, \u0111i\u1ec1u quan tr\u1ecdng l\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ec3 x\u1ea3y ra hi\u1ec7n t\u01b0\u1ee3ng k\u00edch \u1ee9ng v\u00e0 b\u00edt t\u1eafc quanh nang l\u00f4ng, n\u1ebfu kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 g\u00e2y ra c\u00e1c s\u1ea9n v\u00e0\/ho\u1eb7c m\u1ee5n vi\u00eam. D\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m n\u00ean \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ki\u1ec3m tra \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ea3m b\u1ea3o ch\u00fang kh\u00f4ng t\u1ea1o nh\u00e2n m\u1ee5n v\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng g\u00e2y m\u1ee5n.<\/p>\n
D\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m c\u0169ng ph\u1ea3i c\u1ea3i thi\u1ec7n t\u00ecnh tr\u1ea1ng c\u1ee7a da b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch t\u1ed1i \u01b0u h\u00f3a h\u00e0ng r\u00e0o da. \u0110\u00e2y m\u1edbi th\u1ef1c s\u1ef1 l\u00e0 l\u1ee3i \u00edch ch\u00ednh c\u1ee7a d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m. M\u1ed9t h\u00e0ng r\u00e0o da nguy\u00ean v\u1eb9n m\u1ecbn v\u00e0 m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i, c\u00f3 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng ph\u1ea3n chi\u1ebfu \u00e1nh s\u00e1ng v\u00e0 t\u1ea1o ra l\u00e0n da s\u00e1ng, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c coi l\u00e0 l\u00e0n da tr\u1ebb trung, h\u1ea5p d\u1eabn h\u01a1n. D\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m ch\u1ee9a nhi\u1ec1u th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n kh\u00e1c nhau, bao g\u1ed3m ch\u1ea5t l\u00e0m m\u1ec1m v\u00e0 polyme, \u0111\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o ra s\u1ef1 ph\u1ea3n x\u1ea1 \u00e1nh s\u00e1ng t\u0103ng c\u01b0\u1eddng; tuy nhi\u00ean, bi\u1ec3u hi\u1ec7n b\u1ec1 ngo\u00e0i n\u00e0y s\u1ebd m\u1ea5t \u0111i khi s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1ea9y kh\u1ecfi b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t da. D\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m c\u0169ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 c\u1ea3i thi\u1ec7n h\u00e0ng r\u00e0o da v\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t ch\u1ee9c n\u0103ng. T\u0103ng c\u01b0\u1eddng t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c c\u1ee7a lipid gian b\u00e0o, g\u1ed3m sphingolipid, sterol t\u1ef1 do v\u00e0 axit b\u00e9o t\u1ef1 do [1], v\u00e0 c\u00e1c t\u1ebf b\u00e0o s\u1eebng ho\u00e1 s\u1ebd \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi t\u1ed1i \u01b0u h\u00f3a ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u00e0 v\u1ebb ngo\u00e0i c\u1ee7a da [2]. V\u00ec v\u1eady, th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m c\u1ee7a d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n r\u1ea5t quan tr\u1ecdng trong hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 nh\u1eadn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c.<\/p>\n
C\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m<\/h2>\n
Nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi tin r\u1eb1ng th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n ho\u1ea1t t\u00ednh c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t c\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m chi\u1ebfm ph\u1ea7n l\u1edbn hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3. \u0110i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y l\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u00fang. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m c\u00f3 l\u1ebd chi\u1ebfm \u00edt nh\u1ea5t 75% hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 c\u1ee7a s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o ra m\u1ed9t l\u1edbp m\u00e0ng m\u1ec1m m\u1ecbn tr\u00ean b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t da m\u00e0 c\u00f2n c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u00e0m gi\u1ea3m s\u1ef1 m\u1ea5t n\u01b0\u1edbc qua bi\u1ec3u b\u00ec (transepidermal water loss, TEWL), l\u00e0m gi\u1ea3m c\u00e1c n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n nh\u1ecf do m\u1ea5t n\u01b0\u1edbc, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t \u0111\u00e1ng ch\u00fa \u00fd l\u00e0 v\u00f9ng b\u00ean xung quanh m\u1eaft. \u0110i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y \u0111\u1ea1t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u00f4ng qua vi\u1ec7c d\u00f9ng c\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t c\u1ea5p \u1ea9m v\u00e0 kho\u00e1 \u1ea9m.<\/p>\n
C\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t kho\u00e1 \u1ea9m t\u1ea1o ra m\u1ed9t l\u1edbp m\u00e0ng d\u1ea7u tr\u00ean b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t da m\u00e0 \u00edt nhi\u1ec1u kh\u00f4ng th\u1ea5m n\u01b0\u1edbc. C\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t c\u00f3 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng g\u00e2y b\u00edt t\u1eafc cao, nh\u01b0 petrolatum, d\u1ea7u kho\u00e1ng, parafin, lanolin v\u00e0 s\u00e1p carnauba, l\u00e0m gi\u1ea3m \u0111\u00e1ng k\u1ec3 s\u1ef1 m\u1ea5t n\u01b0\u1edbc, nh\u01b0ng l\u1ea1i g\u00e2y d\u00ednh v\u00e0 k\u00e9m t\u01b0\u01a1ng th\u00edch v\u1edbi m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m c\u00f3 m\u00e0u [3]. T\u00ednh th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n r\u1ea5t quan tr\u1ecdng c\u1ee7a d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m.<\/p>\n
V\u00ec l\u00fd do n\u00e0y, h\u1ea7u h\u1ebft c\u00e1c c\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m g\u1ed3m c\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t \u00edt g\u00e2y b\u00edt t\u1eafc h\u01a1n c\u0169ng c\u0169ng \u00edt nh\u1eddn h\u01a1n, nh\u01b0 c\u00e1c d\u1eabn xu\u1ea5t silicone (dimethicone, dimethiconol) v\u00e0 polyme (acrylate). Nhi\u1ec1u c\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c d\u1ef1a tr\u00ean th\u1ef1c v\u1eadt s\u1ebd bao g\u1ed3m d\u1ea7u jojoba, c\u00e2y gai d\u1ea7u, c\u00e2y l\u01b0u ly ho\u1eb7c hoa anh th\u1ea3o.<\/p>\n
C\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t kho\u00e1 \u1ea9m ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi ch\u1ea5t c\u1ea5p \u1ea9m \u0111\u1ec3 kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 ng\u0103n n\u01b0\u1edbc ra kh\u1ecfi da m\u00e0 c\u00f2n \u0111\u1ec3 c\u1ea5p n\u01b0\u1edbc cho da b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch thu h\u00fat n\u01b0\u1edbc. Ch\u1ea5t c\u1ea5p \u1ea9m \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng trong m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m trong nhi\u1ec1u n\u0103m \u0111\u1ec3 t\u0103ng th\u1eddi h\u1ea1n s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch ng\u0103n ch\u1eb7n s\u1ef1 bay h\u01a1i c\u1ee7a s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 \u0111\u00f4ng \u0111\u1eb7c sau \u0111\u00f3 do s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i c\u1ee7a nhi\u1ec7t \u0111\u1ed9 v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9 \u1ea9m. Ch\u1ea5t c\u1ea5p \u1ea9m ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 b\u1ecdt bi\u1ec3n trong da \u0111\u1ec3 gi\u1eef n\u01b0\u1edbc v\u1edbi ch\u1ea5t c\u1ea5p \u1ea9m t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean ch\u00ednh c\u1ee7a da l\u00e0 axit hyaluronic, c\u0169ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng l\u00e0m ch\u1ea5t c\u1ea5p \u1ea9m trong c\u00e1c ch\u1ebf ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m. C\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t c\u1ea5p \u1ea9m th\u00f4ng th\u01b0\u1eddng kh\u00e1c bao g\u1ed3m glycerin, natri lactat, ur\u00ea, propylene glycol, sorbitol, axit pyrrolidone carboxylic, gelatin, vitamin v\u00e0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 protein [4, 5].<\/p>\n
Cu\u1ed1i c\u00f9ng, l\u00e0m m\u1ec1m l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t kh\u00e1i ni\u1ec7m quan tr\u1ecdng trong hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m. Ch\u1ea5t l\u00e0m m\u1ec1m l\u00e0m m\u1ecbn c\u00e1c t\u1ebf b\u00e0o s\u1eebng ho\u00e1 bong tr\u00f3c \u0111\u1ec3 l\u00e0m cho b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t da tr\u1edf n\u00ean m\u1ecbn m\u00e0ng v\u00e0 c\u1ea3m th\u1ea5y m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i, \u0111\u00e2y l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng l\u1ee3i \u00edch r\u1ea5t quan tr\u1ecdng c\u1ee7a d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m m\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi ti\u00eau d\u00f9ng c\u1ea3m nh\u1eadn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c [6]. Ngo\u00e0i ra, m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 ch\u1ea5t l\u00e0m m\u1ec1m c\u0169ng l\u00e0 ch\u1ea5t gi\u1eef \u1ea9m kho\u00e1 \u1ea9m cho da. \u0110i\u1ec1u quan tr\u1ecdng \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 h\u00e0i l\u00f2ng c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi ti\u00eau d\u00f9ng v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m v\u00ec l\u00e0n da m\u1ecbn m\u00e0ng \u0111\u00fang mong \u0111\u1ee3i sau khi s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 \u0111\u1ed9 m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 kh\u00f4ng nh\u1ea5t thi\u1ebft t\u01b0\u01a1ng quan v\u1edbi gi\u1ea3m TEWL. Ch\u1ea5t l\u00e0m m\u1ec1m ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch l\u1ea5p \u0111\u1ea7y kho\u1ea3ng tr\u1ed1ng gi\u1eefa l\u1edbp v\u1ea3y da bong tr\u00f3c b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1c gi\u1ecdt d\u1ea7u, nh\u01b0ng t\u00e1c d\u1ee5ng c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 t\u1ea1m th\u1eddi. C\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t l\u00e0m m\u1ec1m da th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng bao g\u1ed3m propylene glycol, isopropyl isostearate, octyl stearate v\u00e0 isopropyl myristate [7].<\/p>\n
H\u1ea7u h\u1ebft c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m g\u1ed3m n\u01b0\u1edbc, lipid, ch\u1ea5t nh\u0169 h\u00f3a, ch\u1ea5t b\u1ea3o qu\u1ea3n, h\u01b0\u01a1ng li\u1ec7u, m\u00e0u v\u00e0 c\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t ph\u1ee5 gia \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t. H\u1ea7u h\u1ebft c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m \u0111\u1ec1u c\u00f3 60\u201380% n\u01b0\u1edbc v\u1edbi ch\u1ee9c n\u0103ng c\u1ee7a n\u01b0\u1edbc nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t ch\u1ea5t pha lo\u00e3ng, bay h\u01a1i nhanh ch\u00f3ng sau khi s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng. Ch\u1ea5t nh\u0169 h\u00f3a th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 ch\u1ea5t t\u1ea9y r\u1eeda \u1edf n\u1ed3ng \u0111\u1ed9 0,5% ho\u1eb7c nh\u1ecf h\u01a1n, gi\u1eef cho lipid \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u0169 h\u00f3a trong n\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t pha li\u00ean t\u1ee5c. \u0110i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y c\u00f3 ngh\u0129a l\u00e0 c\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t ph\u1ee5 gia chuy\u00ean bi\u1ec7t tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 ph\u00e2n bi\u1ec7t gi\u1eefa c\u00e1c s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m kh\u00e1c nhau. T\u00f3m l\u1ea1i, m\u1ed9t c\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0m t\u0103ng h\u00e0m l\u01b0\u1ee3ng n\u01b0\u1edbc trong da (d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m) v\u00e0 l\u00e0m cho da c\u1ea3m th\u1ea5y m\u1ecbn m\u00e0ng v\u00e0 m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i (l\u00e0m m\u1ec1m).<\/p>\n
Th\u1eed nghi\u1ec7m kh\u00f4ng x\u00e2m l\u1ea5n v\u1ec1 hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 c\u1ee7a d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m<\/h2>\n
H\u1ea7u h\u1ebft c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 tr\u01b0\u1edbc khi ti\u1ebfp th\u1ecb \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ea3m b\u1ea3o ch\u00fang \u0111\u00e1p \u1ee9ng c\u00e1c m\u1ee5c ti\u00eau v\u1ec1 hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 c\u1ee7a c\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c. V\u00ec c\u00e1c ph\u00e2n t\u00edch sinh thi\u1ebft x\u00e2m l\u1ea5n kh\u00f4ng th\u00edch h\u1ee3p, do c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 ch\u1ee9ng minh \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u00e1c hi\u1ec7u \u1ee9ng gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 thu\u1ed1c, n\u00ean d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1eed nghi\u1ec7m b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1c ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u00e1p kh\u00f4ng x\u00e2m l\u1ea5n. C\u00e1c ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u00e1p kh\u00f4ng x\u00e2m l\u1ea5n n\u00e0y bao g\u1ed3m ph\u00e2n t\u00edch h\u1ed3i quy, \u0111o b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t, \u0111o da kh\u00f4, ph\u00e2n t\u00edch h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh in vivo, \u0111o l\u1edbp s\u1eebng v\u00e0 \u0111o bay h\u01a1i [8].<\/p>\n
Ph\u00e2n t\u00edch h\u1ed3i quy l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u00e1p quan tr\u1ecdng \u0111\u1ec3 x\u00e1c \u0111\u1ecbnh xem kem d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o ra l\u1ee3i \u00edch ngay c\u1ea3 khi \u0111\u00e3 ng\u1eebng s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng. M\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m t\u1ed1t s\u1ebd duy tr\u00ec m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 l\u1ee3i \u00edch sau 48 gi\u1edd sau khi s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m. H\u1ea7u h\u1ebft c\u00e1c nghi\u00ean c\u1ee9u h\u1ed3i quy s\u1ebd y\u00eau c\u1ea7u c\u00e1c \u0111\u1ed1i t\u01b0\u1ee3ng d\u00f9ng d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m tr\u00ean m\u1eb7t trong 2-4 tu\u1ea7n sau \u0111\u00f3 ng\u1eebng s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng. Da s\u1ebd \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 v\u00e0o cu\u1ed1i giai \u0111o\u1ea1n nghi\u00ean c\u1ee9u; c\u00e1c \u0111\u1ed1i t\u01b0\u1ee3ng s\u1ebd ng\u1eebng s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng, quay l\u1ea1i trung t\u00e2m nghi\u00ean c\u1ee9u sau l\u1ea7n s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng cu\u1ed1i c\u00f9ng 48 gi\u1edd, v\u00e0 tr\u1ea3i qua qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 [9]. Ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u00e1p n\u00e0y \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t c\u00f3 gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb v\u00ec hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 c\u1ee7a t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i kem d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m l\u00e0 tuy\u1ec7t v\u1eddi ngay sau khi s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng, nh\u01b0ng hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 th\u1ef1c s\u1ef1 ch\u1ec9 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 d\u1ef1a tr\u00ean th\u1eddi gian k\u00e9o d\u00e0i c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c l\u1ee3i \u00edch [10].<\/p>\n
Gi\u1ea3m thi\u1ec3u c\u00e1c n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n v\u00e0 n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n nh\u1ecf l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t l\u1ee3i \u00edch th\u00f4ng th\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1ee7a d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m. M\u1ed9t ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u00e1p kh\u00f4ng x\u00e2m l\u1ea5n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng \u0111\u1ec3 ghi nh\u1eadn th\u00f4ng tin gi\u1ea3m n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n l\u00e0 \u0111o b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t, g\u1ed3m vi\u1ec7c ph\u00e2n t\u00edch c\u00e1c b\u1ea3n sao silicone c\u1ee7a b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t da b\u1eb1ng h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh qu\u00e9t laser. Silicone kh\u00f4ng polyme ho\u00e1, gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 v\u1eadt li\u1ec7u l\u1ea5y d\u1ea5u trong nha khoa, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tr\u1ed9n v\u1edbi ch\u1ea5t x\u00fac t\u00e1c. Silicone \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1eb7t tr\u00ean b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t da \u0111\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o ra m\u1ed9t b\u1ea3n sao \u00e2m b\u1ea3n c\u1ee7a k\u1ebft c\u1ea5u da. Vi\u1ec7c ph\u00e2n t\u00edch c\u00e1c b\u1ea3n sao n\u00e0y tr\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0 sau khi s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 x\u00e1c \u0111\u1ecbnh kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng gi\u1ea3m thi\u1ec3u n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n c\u1ee7a s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m v\u00e0 h\u1ed7 tr\u1ee3 c\u00e1c tuy\u00ean b\u1ed1 v\u1ec1 gi\u1ea3m n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n [11].<\/p>\n
Nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tuy\u00ean b\u1ed1 l\u00e0m m\u1ecbn b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t da ho\u1eb7c mang l\u1ea1i l\u00e0n da t\u01b0\u01a1i tr\u1ebb h\u01a1n th\u00f4ng qua vi\u1ec7c t\u1ea9y da ch\u1ebft. T\u1ea9y da ch\u1ebft lo\u1ea1i b\u1ecf c\u00e1c t\u1ebf b\u00e0o s\u1eebng ho\u00e1 \u0111\u00e3 ch\u1ebft tr\u00ean b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t da, l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t hi\u1ec7u \u1ee9ng th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9, b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng c\u00e1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n ti\u00eau hu\u1ef7 c\u00e1c li\u00ean k\u1ebft gi\u1eefa c\u00e1c t\u1ebf b\u00e0o. C\u00e1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n c\u00f3 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng t\u1ea9y da ch\u1ebft g\u1ed3m axit glycolic, lactic, malic v\u00e0 salicylic. M\u1eb7c d\u00f9 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 nh\u00ecn th\u1ea5y v\u00e0 c\u1ea3m nh\u1eadn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bi\u1ec3u hi\u1ec7n c\u1ee7a da \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1ea9y da ch\u1ebft, nh\u01b0ng ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u00e1p \u0111o da kh\u00f4 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt kh\u00f4ng x\u00e2m l\u1ea5n c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng \u0111\u1ec3 ch\u1ee9ng minh kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng t\u1ea9y da ch\u1ebft t\u0103ng c\u01b0\u1eddng. V\u1edbi k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt n\u00e0y, m\u1ed9t cu\u1ed9n b\u0103ng tr\u00f2n d\u00ednh, g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 D-squame, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u00e9p l\u00ean b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t da b\u1eb1ng m\u1ed9t p\u00edt t\u00f4ng \u00e1p l\u1ef1c kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ed5i v\u1edbi s\u1ed1 \u0111\u1ebfm l\u00e0 10. Sau \u0111\u00f3, D-squame \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1ea5y ra b\u1eb1ng k\u1eb9p v\u00e0 \u0111\u1eb7t tr\u00ean m\u1ed9t th\u1ebb n\u1ec1n m\u00e0u \u0111en. \u0110\u1ed9 m\u1edd c\u1ee7a b\u0103ng, t\u0103ng l\u00ean khi lo\u1ea1i b\u1ecf nhi\u1ec1u v\u1ea3y da h\u01a1n, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c so s\u00e1nh v\u1edbi th\u1ebb tham chi\u1ebfu quang s\u1ed1 \u0111\u1ec3 cho ra x\u1ebfp h\u1ea1ng cho l\u01b0\u1ee3ng v\u1ea3y da \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c lo\u1ea1i b\u1ecf. V\u1ea3y da h\u1ea1n ch\u1ebf cho th\u1ea5y d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m t\u1ea9y da ch\u1ebft \u00edt, trong khi quy m\u00f4 da nhi\u1ec1u h\u01a1n cho th\u1ea5y l\u1ee3i \u00edch t\u1ea9y da ch\u1ebft l\u1edbn h\u01a1n [12]. K\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt D-squame l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 kh\u00f4ng x\u00e2m l\u1ea5n c\u00f3 gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb cho t\u1ea9y da ch\u1ebft.<\/p>\n
Hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m<\/strong> nh\u00ecn th\u1ea5y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 b\u1eb1ng m\u1eaft ng\u01b0\u1eddi, nh\u01b0ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 quan s\u00e1t th\u1ea5y nh\u1eefng hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 tinh t\u1ebf h\u01a1n v\u1edbi ph\u00e2n t\u00edch h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh in vivo s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng video k\u00ednh hi\u1ec3n vi [13]. C\u1ea7n ph\u1ea3i c\u1ea9n th\u1eadn \u0111\u1ec3 ti\u00eau chu\u1ea9n h\u00f3a \u00e1nh s\u00e1ng v\u00e0 g\u00f3c m\u00e1y \u1ea3nh \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ea3m b\u1ea3o h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh so s\u00e1nh ch\u00ednh x\u00e1c. Tuy nhi\u00ean, vi\u1ec7c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng video k\u00ednh hi\u1ec3n vi c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 c\u00f3 gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb h\u1ea1n ch\u1ebf trong vi\u1ec7c \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m. N\u1ebfu m\u1eaft ng\u01b0\u1eddi kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 nh\u00ecn th\u1ea5y s\u1ef1 c\u1ea3i thi\u1ec7n v\u00e0 ch\u1ec9 c\u00f3 h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh qua video k\u00ednh hi\u1ec3n vi m\u1edbi c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 ph\u00e1t hi\u1ec7n ra l\u1ee3i \u00edch, li\u1ec7u ng\u01b0\u1eddi ti\u00eau d\u00f9ng c\u00f3 ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 k\u1ebft qu\u1ea3 r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng? \u0110\u00e2y lu\u00f4n l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u00e1ch th\u1ee9c khi \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m.<\/p>\n
Nh\u01b0 \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u1ec1 c\u1eadp tr\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u00f3, h\u00e0m l\u01b0\u1ee3ng n\u01b0\u1edbc trong da r\u1ea5t quan tr\u1ecdng \u0111\u1ec3 t\u1ed1i \u01b0u h\u00f3a bi\u1ec3u hi\u1ec7n b\u1ec1 ngo\u00e0i c\u1ee7a da. M\u1ed9t l\u1ee3i \u00edch ch\u00ednh c\u1ee7a d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m l\u00e0 gi\u1ea3m l\u01b0\u1ee3ng n\u01b0\u1edbc m\u1ea5t kh\u1ecfi da v\u00e0 t\u0103ng l\u01b0\u1ee3ng n\u01b0\u1edbc trong da. Hai l\u1ee3i \u00edch n\u00e0y c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111o l\u01b0\u1eddng th\u00f4ng qua thi\u1ebft b\u1ecb kh\u00f4ng x\u00e2m l\u1ea5n. L\u01b0\u1ee3ng n\u01b0\u1edbc m\u1ea5t kh\u1ecfi da, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 TEWL, c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111o th\u00f4ng qua \u0111o b\u1ed1c h\u01a1i [14, 15]. K\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt n\u00e0y s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng m\u1ed9t \u0111\u1ea7u d\u00f2 c\u00f3 ch\u1ee9a hai thi\u1ebft b\u1ecb \u0111o \u0111\u1ed9 \u1ea9m c\u00e1ch nhau m\u1ed9t kho\u1ea3ng \u0111\u00e3 bi\u1ebft \u0111\u1eb7t ph\u00eda tr\u00ean m\u1ed9t bu\u1ed3ng thu c\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng k\u00ednh \u0111\u00e3 bi\u1ebft. \u0110\u1ea7u d\u00f2 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1eb7t ti\u1ebfp x\u00fac v\u1edbi da trong 1 ph\u00fat v\u00e0 l\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u1ed9 \u1ea9m \u0111o \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thu th\u1eadp cho \u0111\u1ebfn khi \u0111\u1ea1t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tr\u1ea1ng th\u00e1i \u1ed5n \u0111\u1ecbnh. \u0110i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y cho ph\u00e9p x\u00e1c \u0111\u1ecbnh l\u01b0\u1ee3ng n\u01b0\u1edbc m\u00e0 da b\u1ecb m\u1ea5t tr\u00ean m\u1ed9t khu v\u1ef1c nh\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ecbnh trong m\u1ed9t kho\u1ea3ng th\u1eddi gian c\u1ed1 \u0111\u1ecbnh. TEWL th\u1ea5p h\u01a1n c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t l\u1ee3i \u00edch ch\u00ednh c\u1ee7a d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m da m\u1eb7t. Ngo\u00e0i ra, l\u01b0\u1ee3ng n\u01b0\u1edbc trong da c\u0169ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 b\u1eb1ng m\u1ed9t k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 \u0111o l\u1edbp s\u1eebng [16]. \u0110o l\u1edbp s\u1eebng \u0111\u01b0a m\u1ed9t d\u00f2ng \u0111i\u1ec7n m\u1ee9c th\u1ea5p h\u01a1n v\u00e0o trong da, d\u00f2ng \u0111i\u1ec7n n\u00e0y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1eabn b\u1edfi n\u01b0\u1edbc gi\u1eefa \u0111\u1ea7u g\u1eedi v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ea7u nh\u1eadn. L\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111i\u1ec7n d\u1eabn c\u1ee7a da t\u1ef7 l\u1ec7 thu\u1eadn v\u1edbi l\u01b0\u1ee3ng n\u01b0\u1edbc trong da. Con s\u1ed1 cao h\u01a1n th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m v\u01b0\u1ee3t tr\u1ed9i.<\/p>\n
Ch\u1ee5p \u1ea3nh v\u00e0 \u0110\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m<\/h2>\n
H\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh tr\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0 sau th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng trong c\u00e1c \u1ea5n ph\u1ea9m khoa h\u1ecdc v\u00e0 ti\u00eau d\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ec3 ghi l\u1ea1i l\u1ee3i \u00edch c\u1ee7a d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m. \u1ea2nh ch\u1ee5p kh\u00e1 hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 v\u00ec ng\u01b0\u1eddi quan s\u00e1t c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0a ra \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n v\u1ec1 vi\u1ec7c li\u1ec7u s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m c\u00f3 t\u00e1c d\u1ee5ng t\u1ed1t hay kh\u00f4ng. H\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 tr\u1ef1c quan, nh\u01b0 minh h\u1ecda trong H\u00ecnh 1, cho th\u1ea5y h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh tr\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0 sau khi d\u00f9ng d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u1ec3 gi\u1ea3m m\u1ea9n \u0111\u1ecf tr\u00ean khu\u00f4n m\u1eb7t.<\/p>\n
$\"Hinh$
Hinh \u1ea3nh tr\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0 sau khi d\u00f9ng m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
H\u00ecnh 1. H\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh tr\u01b0\u1edbc (a) v\u00e0 sau (b) sau khi d\u00f9ng d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u1ec3 gi\u1ea3m thi\u1ec3u m\u1ea9n \u0111\u1ecf tr\u00ean khu\u00f4n m\u1eb7t.<\/p>\n
Ch\u1ee5p \u1ea3nh c\u0169ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u0103ng c\u01b0\u1eddng b\u1eb1ng m\u00e1y t\u00ednh \u0111\u1ec3 ph\u00e2n t\u00edch h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh chi ti\u1ebft h\u01a1n. H\u00ecnh 2 cho th\u1ea5y vi\u1ec7c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng t\u0103ng c\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng k\u1ebb \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 \u0111\u1ed9 d\u00e0i tuy\u1ebfn t\u00ednh c\u1ee7a n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n nh\u1ecf \/ n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n tr\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0 sau khi s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng kem d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m chuy\u00ean d\u1ee5ng cho m\u1eaft. Vi\u1ec7c t\u0103ng c\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng th\u1eb3ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ef1c hi\u1ec7n th\u1ee7 c\u00f4ng tr\u00ean h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh m\u00e1y t\u00ednh, do \u0111\u00f3 c\u00f3 y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 c\u1ee7a con ng\u01b0\u1eddi. C\u0169ng l\u01b0u \u00fd r\u1eb1ng ch\u1ee5p \u1ea3nh c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u00e0m sai l\u1ec7ch c\u00e1c l\u1ee3i \u00edch c\u1ee7a d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m. Trong H\u00ecnh 2a tr\u01b0\u1edbc khi \u0111i\u1ec1u tr\u1ecb, nhi\u1ec1u n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n nh\u1ecf \/ n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt h\u01a1n so v\u1edbi sau khi \u0111i\u1ec1u tr\u1ecb trong H\u00ecnh 2b; tuy nhi\u00ean, m\u1eaft c\u00f3 v\u1ebb th\u01b0 gi\u00e3n h\u01a1n trong H\u00ecnh 2b, c\u00f3 l\u1ebd g\u00f3p ph\u1ea7n c\u1ea3i thi\u1ec7n. V\u1ecb tr\u00ed m\u1eaft l\u00e0 r\u1ea5t quan tr\u1ecdng khi \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh tr\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0 sau khi ghi l\u1ea1i l\u1ee3i \u00edch c\u1ee7a d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m m\u1eaft.<\/p>\n
$\"H\u00ecnh$
H\u00ecnh 2. H\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh khu\u00f4n m\u1eb7t tr\u01b0\u1edbc (a) v\u00e0 sau (b) \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 sau khi d\u00f9ng d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u1ec3 gi\u1ea3m thi\u1ec3u n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n nh\u1ecf _ n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n b\u1eb1ng s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng ph\u00e2n t\u00edch h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt s\u1ed1.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
H\u00ecnh 3 tr\u00ecnh b\u00e0y h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh tr\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0 sau c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u1ec3 gi\u1ea3m thi\u1ec3u s\u1ef1 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n c\u1ee7a l\u1ed7 ch\u00e2n l\u00f4ng. C\u00e1c l\u1ed7 ch\u00e2n l\u00f4ng \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng thu\u1eadt to\u00e1n m\u00e1y t\u00ednh \u0111\u1ec3 nh\u1eadn d\u1ea1ng m\u1eabu. Nhi\u1ec1u l\u1ed7 ch\u00e2n l\u00f4ng \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u trong h\u00ecnh tr\u01b0\u1edbc (H\u00ecnh 3a) h\u01a1n h\u00ecnh sau (H\u00ecnh 3b). Li\u1ec7u ng\u01b0\u1eddi ti\u00eau d\u00f9ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 c\u1ea3m nh\u1eadn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ef1 gi\u1ea3m l\u1ed7 ch\u00e2n l\u00f4ng kh\u00f4ng? \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 th\u00e1ch th\u1ee9c khi s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 m\u00e1y t\u00ednh \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9.<\/p>\n
$\"H\u00ecnh$
H\u00ecnh 3. H\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh khu\u00f4n m\u1eb7t tr\u01b0\u1edbc (a) v\u00e0 sau (b) \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 sau khi d\u00f9ng d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u1ec3 thu nh\u1ecf l\u1ed7 ch\u00e2n l\u00f4ng b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng ph\u00e2n t\u00edch h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt s\u1ed1.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
Ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n k\u1ebf ho\u1ea1ch \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m<\/h2>\n
Kh\u00f4ng d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m n\u00e0o c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 mang l\u1ea1i t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 c\u00e1c l\u1ee3i \u00edch cho da; do \u0111\u00f3, \u0111i\u1ec1u quan tr\u1ecdng l\u00e0 ph\u1ea3i x\u00e1c \u0111\u1ecbnh c\u00e1c m\u1ee5c ti\u00eau c\u1ee7a s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m. Kh\u00e1i ni\u1ec7m d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m c\u1ea7n \u0111\u1eb7t v\u00e0o c\u00e1c nhu c\u1ea7u c\u1ee7a l\u00e0n da l\u00e3o h\u00f3a (B\u1ea3ng 1). \u0110\u00f4i khi, t\u1ed1t h\u01a1n l\u00e0 l\u00e0m s\u00e1ng t\u1ecf nh\u1eefng l\u1ee3i \u00edch mong mu\u1ed1n c\u1ee7a d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m tr\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0 sau \u0111\u00f3 ch\u1ecdn c\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi c\u00e1c c\u00f4ng b\u1ed1 h\u01a1n l\u00e0 c\u00f4ng b\u1ed1 cho c\u00e1c c\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c. Tuy nhi\u00ean, l\u1ee3i \u00edch th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf l\u00e0 quan tr\u1ecdng, ho\u1eb7c l\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi ti\u00eau d\u00f9ng s\u1ebd mua d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m m\u1ed9t l\u1ea7n, nh\u01b0ng kh\u00f4ng mua l\u1ea1i. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 l\u00fd do l\u1edbn nh\u1ea5t d\u1eabn \u0111\u1ebfn th\u1ea5t b\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a ng\u00e0nh d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m tr\u00ean th\u1ecb tr\u01b0\u1eddng. \u0110\u00f3 c\u0169ng l\u00e0 l\u00fd do l\u1edbn nh\u1ea5t khi\u1ebfn c\u00e1c s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m x\u00e2m nh\u1eadp v\u00e0 tho\u00e1t kh\u1ecfi th\u1ecb tr\u01b0\u1eddng v\u1edbi t\u1ed1c \u0111\u1ed9 ch\u00f3ng m\u1eb7t, h\u1ee9a h\u1eb9n r\u1eb1ng s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m m\u1edbi ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng t\u1ed1t h\u01a1n, nhanh h\u01a1n v\u00e0 mang l\u1ea1i k\u1ebft qu\u1ea3 \u1ea5n t\u01b0\u1ee3ng h\u01a1n.<\/p>\n
B\u1ea3ng 1. Nhu c\u1ea7u c\u1ee7a l\u00e0n da l\u00e3o h\u00f3a<\/p>\n
\n
N\u1ebfp nh\u0103n nh\u1ecf<\/li>\n
N\u1ebfp nh\u0103n: \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u00e0 t\u0129nh<\/li>\n
N\u1ebfp g\u1ea5p<\/li>\n
M\u00e0u da<\/li>\n
R\u1ed1i lo\u1ea1n s\u1eafc t\u1ed1<\/li>\n
K\u1ebft c\u1ea5u<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
N\u1ebfu d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u1ec3 gi\u1ea3i quy\u1ebft c\u00e1c n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n n\u00f4ng v\u00e0 n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n tr\u00ean khu\u00f4n m\u1eb7t, th\u00ec nh\u00e0 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t ph\u1ea3i nh\u1eafm m\u1ee5c ti\u00eau nh\u1eefng n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n n\u00f4ng v\u00e0 n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n n\u00e0o s\u1ebd \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3i thi\u1ec7n v\u00e0 sau \u0111\u00f3 \u0111i\u1ec1u ch\u1ec9nh c\u00e1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n c\u00f3 s\u1eb5n cho m\u1ee5c ti\u00eau. C\u0169ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n tr\u00ean khu\u00f4n m\u1eb7t kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c kh\u1eafc ph\u1ee5c b\u1eb1ng s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m b\u00f4i ngo\u00e0i da, trong tr\u01b0\u1eddng h\u1ee3p \u0111\u00f3, n\u00ean ch\u1ecdn c\u00e1c n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n n\u00f4ng nh\u1ecf h\u01a1n \u0111\u1ec3 gi\u1ea3m thi\u1ec3u. C\u00e1c v\u1ea5n \u0111\u1ec1 v\u1ec1 m\u00e0u da v\u00e0 r\u1ed1i lo\u1ea1n s\u1eafc t\u1ed1 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gi\u1ea3i quy\u1ebft \u0111\u01a1n l\u1ebb ho\u1eb7c k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi c\u00e1c n\u1ebfp nh\u0103n v\u00e0 n\u1ebfp g\u1ea5p. Retinoids trong m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m, nh\u01b0 retinol, c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 c\u1ea3i thi\u1ec7n t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 c\u00e1c v\u1ea5n \u0111\u1ec1 l\u00e3o h\u00f3a tr\u00ean khu\u00f4n m\u1eb7t, nh\u01b0ng ph\u1ea3i c\u1ea9n th\u1eadn kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ec3 n\u1ed3ng \u0111\u1ed9 qu\u00e1 cao g\u00e2y k\u00edch \u1ee9ng. K\u00edch \u1ee9ng da c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1ea5p nh\u1eadn khi s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng retinoid theo \u0111\u01a1n d\u01b0\u1edbi s\u1ef1 h\u01b0\u1edbng d\u1eabn c\u1ee7a b\u00e1c s\u0129 da li\u1ec5u, nh\u01b0ng ph\u1ea3i tr\u00e1nh k\u00edch \u1ee9ng b\u1eb1ng m\u1ecdi gi\u00e1 trong s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m. T\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1ef1, ch\u1ee9ng r\u1ed1i lo\u1ea1n s\u1eafc t\u1ed1 da t\u1ed1i m\u00e0u c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111i\u1ec1u tr\u1ecb b\u1eb1ng m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m l\u00e0m s\u00e1ng da c\u00f3 ch\u1ee9a hydroquinone.<\/p>\n
Nh\u1eefng th\u00e1ch th\u1ee9c v\u1ec1 th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m<\/h2>\n
Kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 n\u00e0o v\u1ec1 d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m l\u00e0 ho\u00e0n ch\u1ec9nh n\u1ebfu kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t cu\u1ed9c th\u1ea3o lu\u1eadn v\u1ec1 nh\u1eefng th\u00e1ch th\u1ee9c v\u1ec1 th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n. C\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m li\u00ean quan \u0111\u1ebfn vi\u1ec7c l\u1ef1a ch\u1ecdn c\u1ea9n th\u1eadn c\u00e1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o ra m\u1ed9t s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m an to\u00e0n, thanh l\u1ecbch, hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p cho b\u1ec7nh nh\u00e2n mua [17]. Nhi\u1ec1u c\u00e2n nh\u1eafc \u0111\u01b0a v\u00e0o c\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c cu\u1ed1i c\u00f9ng g\u1ed3m t\u00e1c d\u1ee5ng l\u00e0m \u1ea9m h\u00e0ng r\u00e0o, \u0111\u1ed9 pH, t\u00e1c d\u1ee5ng b\u00f4i tr\u01a1n, t\u00e1c d\u1ee5ng l\u00e0m d\u1ecbu, t\u00e1c d\u1ee5ng th\u1ea9m th\u1ea5u, l\u00e0m m\u1ec1m da v\u00e0 h\u1ea5p th\u1ee5 qua da [18]. M\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n g\u00e2y tranh c\u00e3i nhi\u1ec1u h\u01a1n trong d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m g\u1ed3m ch\u1ea5t b\u1ea3o qu\u1ea3n, ph\u1ee5 gia th\u1ea3o m\u1ed9c v\u00e0 ph\u1ee5 gia sinh h\u1ecdc.<\/p>\n
Ch\u1ea5t b\u1ea3o qu\u1ea3n<\/h3>\n
Ch\u1ea5t b\u1ea3o qu\u1ea3n c\u00f3 l\u1ebd l\u00e0 th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n g\u00e2y tranh c\u00e3i nh\u1ea5t trong t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 c\u00e1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m. T\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 c\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t b\u1ea3o qu\u1ea3n hi\u1ec7n c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ec1u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t t\u1ed5ng h\u1ee3p v\u00ec kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 h\u1ed7n h\u1ee3p ch\u1ea5t b\u1ea3o qu\u1ea3n ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean n\u00e0o \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1ea1o ra cho \u0111\u1ebfn nay. Kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m n\u00e0o c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u00e1n th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i kh\u00f4ng c\u1ea7n gi\u1eef l\u1ea1nh m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 ch\u1ea5t b\u1ea3o qu\u1ea3n. Tuy nhi\u00ean, ch\u1ea5t b\u1ea3o qu\u1ea3n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c cho l\u00e0 nguy\u00ean nh\u00e2n g\u00e2y ra m\u1ecdi th\u1ee9, t\u1eeb ung th\u01b0 v\u00fa, b\u00e9o ph\u00ec \u0111\u1ebfn h\u1ee7y ho\u1ea1i m\u00f4i tr\u01b0\u1eddng. N\u1ebfu kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 ch\u1ea5t b\u1ea3o qu\u1ea3n, c\u00e1c lipid l\u00e0m m\u1ec1m v\u00e0 kho\u00e1 \u1ea9m trong c\u00e1c c\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m s\u1ebd nhanh ch\u00f3ng b\u1ecb oxy h\u00f3a, khi\u1ebfn kem b\u1ecb thiu ho\u1eb7c nhi\u1ec5m khu\u1ea9n s\u1ebd l\u00e0m cho c\u00e1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n h\u00f2a tan trong n\u01b0\u1edbc kh\u00f4ng an to\u00e0n. Ch\u1ea5t b\u1ea3o qu\u1ea3n l\u00e0 nh\u00f3m ch\u1ea5t g\u00e2y d\u1ecb \u1ee9ng ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn th\u1ee9 hai \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00ecm th\u1ea5y trong d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m sau h\u01b0\u01a1ng li\u1ec7u [19]. Tuy nhi\u00ean, s\u1ed1 tr\u01b0\u1eddng h\u1ee3p vi\u00eam da ti\u1ebfp x\u00fac do k\u00edch \u1ee9ng v\u00e0 d\u1ecb \u1ee9ng th\u1ef1c s\u1ef1 r\u1ea5t nh\u1ecf so v\u1edbi hai ch\u1ee9c n\u0103ng c\u1ea7n thi\u1ebft m\u00e0 ch\u1ea5t b\u1ea3o qu\u1ea3n th\u1ef1c hi\u1ec7n trong m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m: ng\u0103n ng\u1eeba h\u01b0 h\u1ecfng tr\u01b0\u1edbc khi mua v\u00e0 ng\u0103n ng\u1eeba \u00f4 nhi\u1ec5m sau khi mua [20, 21]. Este paraben l\u00e0 ch\u1ea5t b\u1ea3o qu\u1ea3n ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn nh\u1ea5t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng trong m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m v\u00ec kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng g\u00e2y k\u00edch \u1ee9ng v\u00e0 nh\u1ea1y c\u1ea3m c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang r\u1ea5t th\u1ea5p khi thoa l\u00ean da kh\u1ecfe m\u1ea1nh [22]. Ch\u00fang th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00ecm th\u1ea5y v\u1edbi n\u1ed3ng \u0111\u1ed9 0,5% ho\u1eb7c \u00edt h\u01a1n \u1edf Hoa K\u1ef3. M\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 lo\u1ea1i m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m \u201ct\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean\u201d s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng tinh d\u1ea7u v\u00e0 n\u01b0\u1edbc hoa c\u00f3 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng kh\u00e1ng khu\u1ea9n, ch\u1eb3ng h\u1ea1n nh\u01b0 d\u1ea7u \u0111inh h\u01b0\u01a1ng, qu\u1ebf, b\u1ea1ch \u0111\u00e0n, hoa h\u1ed3ng, hoa o\u1ea3i h\u01b0\u01a1ng, chanh, c\u1ecf x\u1ea1 h\u01b0\u01a1ng, h\u01b0\u01a1ng th\u1ea3o v\u00e0 g\u1ed7 \u0111\u00e0n h\u01b0\u01a1ng [23].<\/p>\n
Ph\u1ee5 gia th\u1ea3o m\u1ed9c<\/h3>\n
C\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t ph\u1ee5 gia th\u1ea3o m\u1ed9c c\u00f3 s\u1ee9c h\u1ea5p d\u1eabn l\u1edbn v\u1edbi ng\u01b0\u1eddi ti\u00eau d\u00f9ng do ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c \u201ct\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean\u201d c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 thu\u1ed1c di\u1ec7t c\u1ecf v\u00e0 \u00f4 nhi\u1ec5m kim lo\u1ea1i n\u1eb7ng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t v\u1ea5n \u0111\u1ec1. C\u00e1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n th\u1ef1c v\u1eadt ph\u1ea3i c\u00f3 ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c c\u1ea9n th\u1eadn \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ea3m b\u1ea3o \u0111\u1ed9 tinh khi\u1ebft n\u1ebfu kh\u00f4ng s\u1ebd x\u1ea3y ra c\u00e1c v\u1ea5n \u0111\u1ec1 v\u1ec1 s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m [24]. Vi\u1ec7c b\u1ed5 sung c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i th\u1ea3o m\u1ed9c t\u1ea1o n\u00ean s\u1ef1 kh\u00e1c bi\u1ec7t gi\u1eefa kem d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m c\u01a1 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t h\u00e0ng lo\u1ea1t v\u00e0 d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m chuy\u00ean d\u1ee5ng. C\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t ph\u1ee5 gia th\u1ef1c v\u1eadt \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c mua t\u1eeb c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t l\u1edbn v\u00e0 th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u00eam v\u00e0o d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m \u1edf cu\u1ed1i qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh ch\u1ebf bi\u1ebfn d\u01b0\u1edbi d\u1ea1ng ch\u1ea5t l\u1ecfng ho\u1eb7c b\u1ed9t. Nguy\u00ean li\u1ec7u th\u1ef1c v\u1eadt c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o m\u00e0u v\u00e0 t\u1ea1o m\u00f9i th\u01a1m cho s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m cu\u1ed1i c\u00f9ng, nh\u01b0ng c\u0169ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 b\u1ed5 sung c\u00e1c l\u1ee3i \u00edch cho da [25].<\/p>\n
C\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t ph\u1ee5 gia th\u1ea3o m\u1ed9c c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u d\u1ea1ng, bao g\u1ed3m: chi\u1ebft xu\u1ea5t hydroglycolic, tinh d\u1ea7u v\u00e0 chi\u1ebft xu\u1ea5t to\u00e0n b\u1ed9 th\u1ef1c v\u1eadt [26]. C\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t chi\u1ebft xu\u1ea5t hydroglycolic, nh\u01b0 l\u00f4 h\u1ed9i, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng v\u1edbi n\u1ed3ng \u0111\u1ed9 3\u201310% v\u00e0 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p c\u1ee7a propylene glycol v\u00e0 n\u01b0\u1edbc, t\u1ea1o ra c\u00e1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n h\u00f2a tan trong n\u01b0\u1edbc, nh\u01b0ng kh\u00f4ng h\u00f2a tan trong d\u1ea7u [27]. C\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i d\u1ea7u thi\u1ebft y\u1ebfu, nh\u01b0 d\u1ea7u b\u01a1, d\u1ea7u m\u00e8 v\u00e0 d\u1ea7u c\u00e2y tr\u00e0, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng v\u1edbi n\u1ed3ng \u0111\u1ed9 2\u20135% [28]. Chi\u1ebft xu\u1ea5t to\u00e0n b\u1ed9 th\u1ef1c v\u1eadt, c\u00f2n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 aromaphytes, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng \u1edf n\u1ed3ng \u0111\u1ed9 5\u201320% v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch chi\u1ebft xu\u1ea5t k\u00e9p c\u00f3 ch\u1ee9a t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 c\u00e1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n c\u1ee7a c\u00e2y. Trong m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m, c\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t ph\u1ee5 gia th\u1ea3o m\u1ed9c \u0111\u00f4i khi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u00eam v\u00e0o \u0111\u1ec3 c\u00f3 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng ch\u1ed1ng oxy h\u00f3a, nh\u01b0ng hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 d\u1ef1a tr\u00ean ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng, n\u1ed3ng \u0111\u1ed9 v\u00e0 th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n th\u1ea3o d\u01b0\u1ee3c.<\/p>\n
Ph\u1ee5 gia sinh h\u1ecdc<\/h3>\n
C\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t ph\u1ee5 gia sinh h\u1ecdc c\u0169ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00ecm th\u1ea5y trong d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m v\u00e0 c\u00f3 ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c t\u1eeb c\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t chi\u1ebft xu\u1ea5t v\u00e0 th\u1ee7y ph\u00e2n c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c tuy\u1ebfn v\u00e0 m\u00f4 c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1eadt thu\u1ed9c c\u00e1c lo\u00e0i kh\u00e1c nhau. Ph\u1ee5 gia sinh h\u1ecdc c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1ea5y d\u01b0\u1edbi d\u1ea1ng chi\u1ebft xu\u1ea5t d\u1ea1ng n\u01b0\u1edbc, hydroglyceric, hydroalcoholic, hydroglycolic v\u00e0 d\u1ea7u t\u1eeb c\u00e1c s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m c\u00f3 ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1eadt. C\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t ph\u1ee5 gia sinh h\u1ecdc d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng g\u1ed3m collagen, elastin, axit hyaluronic, keratin, nhau thai, d\u1eabn xu\u1ea5t m\u00e1u v\u00e0 t\u1ebf b\u00e0o g\u1ed1c.<\/p>\n
Collagen, m\u1ed9t ph\u00e2n t\u1eed l\u1edbn bao g\u1ed3m ba chu\u1ed7i peptit xo\u1eafn, l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ch\u1ea5t ph\u1ee5 gia sinh h\u1ecdc \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng trong m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 lo\u1ea1i d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m. Collagen th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1ea5y t\u1eeb da b\u00ea \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1eaft nh\u1ecf \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u1eed l\u00fd c\u1ea9n th\u1eadn \u0111\u1ec3 lo\u1ea1i b\u1ecf s\u1ef1 bi\u1ebfn t\u00ednh.<\/p>\n
Elastin, m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac c\u1ee7a l\u1edbp b\u00ec ch\u1ecbu tr\u00e1ch nhi\u1ec7m cho kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng da ph\u1ee5c h\u1ed3i c\u1ea5u h\u00ecnh ban \u0111\u1ea7u sau khi b\u1ecb k\u00e9o c\u0103ng v\u00e0 bi\u1ebfn d\u1ea1ng kh\u00e1c, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1ea5y t\u1eeb d\u00e2y ch\u1eb1ng c\u1ed5 b\u00f2. Elastin, th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u00eam v\u00e0o d\u01b0\u1edbi d\u1ea1ng ch\u1ea5t th\u1ee7y ph\u00e2n, l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ch\u1ea5t l\u1ecfng m\u00e0u v\u00e0ng trong. Trong khi vi\u1ec7c b\u1ed5 sung collagen v\u00e0 elastin v\u00e0o d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee1ng \u1ea9m c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c coi l\u00e0 l\u00e0m d\u00e0y da v\u00e0 t\u0103ng \u0111\u1ed9 \u0111\u00e0n h\u1ed3i, c\u00e1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea7n n\u00e0y th\u1ef1c s\u1ef1 ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng nh\u01b0 ch\u1ea5t c\u1ea5p \u1ea9m \u0111\u1ec3 c\u1ea3i thi\u1ec7n kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng gi\u1eef n\u01b0\u1edbc c\u1ee7a da [29]. M\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n c\u1ee7a vi\u1ec7c \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m l\u00e0 x\u00e1c \u0111\u1ecbnh gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb th\u1ef1c c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 gia sinh h\u1ecdc.<\/p>\n
K\u1ebft lu\u1eadn<\/h2>\n
Ch\u01b0\u01a1ng n\u00e0y \u0111\u00e3 tr\u00ecnh b\u00e0y m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 c\u00e2n nh\u1eafc quan tr\u1ecdng li\u00ean quan \u0111\u1ebfn hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m. Kh\u00e1i ni\u1ec7m d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m c\u00f3 s\u1ee9c h\u1ea5p d\u1eabn l\u1edbn v\u1edbi ng\u01b0\u1eddi ti\u00eau d\u00f9ng b\u1edfi v\u00ec \u00fd t\u01b0\u1edfng b\u00f4i kem l\u00ean khu\u00f4n m\u1eb7t l\u00e3o ho\u00e1 \u0111\u1ec3 l\u00e0m cho n\u00f3 tr\u00f4ng tr\u1ebb l\u1ea1i \u0111ang r\u1ea5t h\u1ea5p d\u1eabn. Khi Ponce de Leon th\u1ef1c s\u1ef1 theo \u0111u\u1ed5i kh\u00e1i ni\u1ec7m d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m khi t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm su\u1ed1i ngu\u1ed3n c\u1ee7a tu\u1ed5i tr\u1ebb, anh ta ch\u01b0a bao gi\u1edd th\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng trong cu\u1ed9c t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh. H\u1ea7u h\u1ebft ng\u01b0\u1eddi ti\u00eau d\u00f9ng c\u0169ng s\u1ebd kh\u00f4ng th\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng trong cu\u1ed9c t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd. Tuy nhi\u00ean, nh\u1eefng ti\u1ebfn b\u1ed9 v\u01b0\u1ee3t b\u1eadc \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ef1c hi\u1ec7n trong c\u00e1c s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m d\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ef9 ph\u1ea9m v\u00e0 vi\u1ec7c hi\u1ec3u c\u00e1ch \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang l\u00e0 r\u1ea5t quan tr\u1ecdng.<\/p>\n
T\u00e0i li\u1ec7u tham kh\u1ea3o<\/h2>\n
1 Elias PM: Lipids and the epidermal permeability barrier. Arch Dermatol Res 1981; 270: 95\u2013117.<\/p>\n
2 Grubauer G, Feingold KR, Elias PM: Relationship of epidermal lipogenesis to cutaneous barrier function. J Lip Res 1987; 28: 746\u2013752.<\/p>\n
3 Friberg SE, Ma Z: Stratum corneum lipids, petrolatum and white oils. Cosmet Toilet 1993; 107: 55\u201359.<\/p>\n
4 De Groot AC, Weyland JW, Nater JP: Unwanted Effects of Cosmetics and Drugs Used in Dermatology, ed 3. Elsevier, Amsterdam, 1994, pp 498\u2013500.<\/p>\n
5 Spencer TS: Dry skin and skin moisturizers. Clin Dermatol 1988; 6: 24\u201328.<\/p>\n
6 Wehr RF, Krochmal L: Considerations in selecting a moisturizer. Cutis 1987; 39: 512\u2013515.<\/p>\n
7 Brand HM, Brand-Garnys EE: Practical application of quantitative emolliency. Cosmet Toilet 1992; 107: 93\u201399.<\/p>\n
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28\u00a0 Jackson EM: Natural ingredients in cosmetics. Am J Contact Dermatitis 1994; 5: 106\u2013109. 29 Hermitte R: Formulating with selected biological extracts. Cosmet Toilet 1991; 106: 53\u201360.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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